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Competition GuidelinesThe following is a list of suggestions and guidelines for you to use when preparing your doll for competition. These have been compiled after discussions with qualified doll judges, and reference materials used for training judges. Although these are listed as recommendations to follow for entering competition, our judges use all of these items as guidelines. We recommend that you read and follow these guidelines as you prepare your dolls for competition. 1. Pay attention to the rules and regulations listed on the competition form. Each competition is slightly different, so be sure to follow the individual guidelines carefully. The few minutes you spend reading the form may save you disqualification or a lower score than necessary because you didn't follow the correct procedures. 2. German and French composition bodies are different. Normally, a German ball jointed body has separate ball joints; on the French body, the ball joints are attached to the arm or leg pieces. Also be sure to use the proper type body of your reproduction. Antique dolls larger than 10" rarely had all porcelain bodies. Many had composition, some had wood, and many had porcelain shoulder plates, arms and legs attached to a cloth or leather body. Research to be sure you are using the correct body. 3. Clothing on antique reproduction dolls should not use: Elastic, Synthetic (nylon, polyester, etc) fabric or trims, zigzagged seams, machine made buttonholes, raw seams, neon colors, plastic snaps or zippers. Clothing for modern dolls can use any of the above, except for raw seams. There should be no hanging threads. Neatness Counts. 4. Clothing for dolls, whether antique or modern, should follow these guidelines:
Note: Some competition judges do not mark off for synthetic fabrics, since they assume finding 100% natural fabrics is difficult. It is true that natural fabrics sometimes cost more than synthetic, but in weighing the extra cost against the total value of the doll, competition dolls deserve the extra expense and effort. Colors should be appropriate to and complementary to the doll. Example, antique reproduction christening gowns should be white. Ecru is sometimes used, but occasionally a judge will mark down for any color other than white or authentically aged antique fabric. 5. Research your doll by searching for articles in magazines, photos and painting guidelines on worksheets and in workbooks, visiting museums or antique shops, or visiting doll shows to see examples of the original doll. Use more than one photo if possible as a cleaning and painting guide. Make a copy of the photo used as a painting guide and submit with your doll for judging. This is not a picture of your doll but rather the picture you used in your research. Some suggested resources are: Coleman's Encyclopedia of Dolls, Seeley Workbooks, Seeley Technique Sheets, modern reproduction doll molds usually have painting guideline and a photo available. Be sure to get the best possible resource available. Note: Some published worksheets do not use photos of the antiques they use photos of someone's reproduction. It is better to use a photo of the actual antique to avoid possible error. Your doll will be judged on its likeness to the original., not to a photo of a reproduction. 6, When cleaning green-ware, be sure to clean seam lines flat, remove any blemishes (including pinholes, scrapes, rough spots, scratches, etc.) before firing. It helps to check pieces in natural sunlight, and also be sure to check piece from every angle. Turn it upside down, then sideways and Check, check, check to make sure every spot is absolutely smooth. Be sure to brush dust away before firing. Uneven or rough spots swill cause blotchiness when painting wash, blush, etc. 7. Always incise (use any small tool to scratch in porcelain) before first firing. Your name and the date are sufficient. It is best to incise on back of head or behind one ear. Cover incision with tape so that it is not visible to the judge. 8. Be sure to clean eye correctly. It is important to check your reference before cleaning the head to be sure the eyes are cut correctly and beveled to the proper size so that paperweight eyes will fit if necessary. 9. Antique dolls did not have solid painted fingernails. Check your references to see if a thin line, blushing, or no line is most appropriate for your reproduction. 10. Under fired or over fired bisque will result in point deductions(s). Be sure you know that the kiln used is firing properly. 11. Try to clean and paint more than one head. Some people will clean 6 heads, choose the three best and paint those three, then choose the one that turns out best to complete their competition doll. Although it may not always be practical or efficient, many doll makers who have won rosettes will use some variation of this hint to obtain their best possible work for competition. 12. Dolls painted in seminars are not eligible for competition. 13. Dolls not incised could be disqualified. Without proper identification, the judge cannot be certain the entrant did all the work. However, be sure to cover your identification with opaque tape. The judges will not remove the tape. If there is a question, the competition chairperson may remove the tape to verify that the doll is incised with the name of the doll maker registered for that doll. The tape is to ensure anonymity for you so that a judge cannot be accused of favoritism toward a friend. 14. The extra effort you put into making your own wig, shoes and/or costume can only help. A doll with all handmade accessories will often outshine a similar doll with purchased wig, shoes and costume. If you cannot do your own sewing, be sure your costumer is knowledgeable about the proper techniques to use for antique or modern reproduction clothing. Buy the best you can afford. All modern lady dolls in this particular competition require all appropriate undergarments as established by the judges to be panties and bra. 15. When you receive your critique sheet, read it carefully and check your doll to see what the judge has pointed out for improvement. If you are not sure, take your doll to your teacher or someone knowledgeable to have them explain the judge's terms. If you did not receive a blue ribbon or a rosette, consider making the doll again for the next year's competition and incorporate all the suggestion or critiques noted by the judge. See if you can improve your work by following the judge's comments. 16. Last but not least, be sure to do your best work. Plan ahead for the doll you will submit for judging to be sure you have all the materials and supplies necessary to complete your doll on time. Remember no judge is perfect Each doll is judged according to guidelines established by the show organizers based on workbooks or other prestigious competitions, but each judge must still use their own judgment in awarding or deducting points. If there is an error on your sheet, be gracious in pointing this out to the chairperson. If the error is in addition, this competition will correct the score and change the ribbon if necessary. If it is a matter of interpretation between you and the judge the benefit will be given to the judge since they are hired for their expertise in doll making. The judges are instructed to disqualify themselves if they feel they know who made a particular doll, so it is unlikely that personal bias will affect your score. The anonymity of the judge and competitor is protected to avoid such problems. Any judge who would use their position to hurt or help a doll maker cannot be considered reputable, and will not be asked to judge again. All entries must be received on Friday, June 27, 2008 at the Hilton DFW Convention Center Hotel in Grapevine, Texas between 10:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. If your doll has been pre-registered you will go to the "Pre-Registration" table. If you are registering your doll at the show, please go to the "New Registration" table. In a plain envelope, separate from your entry form, it is advised that you include any information or documentation about your doll that you might wish the judge to consider. Some items you should include are: 1. Photos of the original doll, not the doll you are entering, but the original artist's doll. 2. Any documentation about the dolls costuming, its history, what it represents, or any documentation that justifies the fabrics or decoration that you have used should be included in your envelope to the judges. This may contain any Xerox or scanned pictures that you feel will help the judges to understand your interpretation. On the outside of the envelope you are asked to write: Judges Please Read. Under no circumstances are you to have your name on or inside this envelope! Attach the envelope to the doll's wrist with ribbon or a band and notify the registration table when you turn in your doll, that you have information for the judges. The entry fee is $10.00 per doll. Dolls 10" and taller that are part of a scene and on a single display board will be judged separately and each must have a separate entry fee and paperwork. Dolls less than 10" on a display board may be judged as one. Dolls may be picked up after the presentation of awards at 3:00 p.m. Sunday afternoon, June 29, 2008. This is an open competition including porcelain dolls, original sculpts, and costume categories. Porcelain doll entries must have the artist's signature and date incised in the green ware stage. This is to be covered with tape so as not to allow the judges to see this during the judging, but it must be available to see when entering the doll at the check in booth. All entries should have been completed within 2 years of the show. This allowance is being made to include any doll prepared for the East Texas Doll Show that was cancelled in 2007. Dolls previously entered into our competition will not be eligible for entry.
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